Queen Elizabeth II is renowned for her stunning royal jewelry, especially showcased during major events like the Diamond Jubilee and Platinum Jubilee. These precious pieces are not only symbols of power but also carry deep historical and cultural significance.
Priceless and Iconic Pieces
The collection features breathtaking tiaras, necklaces, and brooches crafted from some of the world’s rarest diamonds and gemstones. Among the most famous is the Diamond Diadem, adorned with over 1,300 sparkling diamonds. This crown has been worn by the Queen at many significant occasions and stands as a symbol of royal authority and endurance.
Other standout pieces include the Delhi Durbar Emerald necklace and the exquisite Burmese ruby set. These treasures were displayed for the first time during the Diamond Jubilee, highlighting the strong ties between the British monarchy and its historical realms.
More Than Just Jewelry: Stories Behind the Gems
Each item in the collection tells a story, embodying history, memories, and national symbolism. The Queen’s brooches, for example, often have deep personal or diplomatic meanings, gifted by nations or tied to landmark events.
Craftsmanship and Elegance
Beyond their material value, the jewelry pieces impress with their intricate craftsmanship. Every gem is carefully selected and masterfully arranged to create dazzling yet refined masterpieces that reflect the grandeur of the monarchy.
Queen Elizabeth II wearing ‘Granny’s tiara’ – the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland tiara and the Coronation Necklace and earrings set, all of which will go on display at Buckingham Palace as part of an exhibition marking 60 years since the Queen’s coronation. The coronation necklace features 25 large diamonds plus the Lahore diamond – a detachable 22.48 carat stone
Not only did he have the privilege of handling these exquisite treasures alongside the Queen’s Jewellery Curator, Angela Kelly, but he was also granted access to the archives and records of various royal jewellers.
Through this access, we uncover the fascinating story behind Queen Victoria’s Fringe Brooch — a captivating piece that resembles both a flower and a jellyfish. It originated from a visit by Sultan Abdul Mejid I of Turkey in 1856. To express his gratitude for Britain’s support during the Crimean War, the Sultan presented the Queen with a magnificent set of diamonds, which she described as “very magnificent.”
Queen Victoria then commissioned the royal jewellers Garrard to set the diamonds into a rather daring “chaine de corsage,” a decorative chain designed to be worn over a low-cut bodice, adding extra sparkle to her royal ensemble.
However, after Prince Albert’s death in 1861, Queen Victoria’s style shifted. Sir Hugh explains that the “chaine de corsage” likely felt too extravagant for her more somber, widowed state. As a result, some of the diamonds were removed for use elsewhere, and the remaining chain was transformed into a brooch that has since been passed down through generations.
The Queen Mother proudly wore this brooch at her coronation in 1953, and Queen Elizabeth II continues to wear it today. Most recently, it featured prominently at a state banquet honoring the President of Turkey — a fitting tribute to the Sultan’s generosity over 150 years ago.
The Lover’s Knot Brooch, left, was worn by the Queen at Prince William’s wedding, and right, The Williamson Brooch showcases the finest pink diamond ever found
Throughout history, monarchs have demonstrated their power and prestige through the use of gold, silver, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and other precious gems. Up until the 17th century, it was primarily men who wore the most exquisite jewelry. However, by the 18th century, diamonds rose to greater prominence as cutting techniques advanced.
With the notable exception of the flamboyantly extravagant King George IV, it was the royal women who increasingly adorned themselves with dazzling jewels.
The first major diamond enthusiast was Queen Charlotte, wife of George III, who brought a significant collection from her native Hanover to the British court.
“The King never allowed her to appear in public without them,” explains Sir Hugh. But when their fifth son, Ernest, ascended to the throne of Hanover, he demanded the return of the entire collection. After a lengthy legal battle in the British courts, the jewels were sent back to Hanover in 1857. “Queen Victoria was horrified,” Sir Hugh reflects.
Nevertheless, Queen Victoria benefited from the wealth generated by British imperial expansion, particularly from some of the richest diamond mines in the world. The Royal Family received magnificent diamonds as “tributes of Empire,” including the famous Koh-i-Noor from Lahore.
The Queen wearing the Williamson brooch, said to hold the ‘finest pink diamond in existence’ at last year’s Royal Ascot
Diamonds quickly became the new royal gold. After Prince Albert’s death, Queen Victoria abandoned all colored gemstones, choosing to wear only diamonds and pearls.
Meanwhile, the future Queen Alexandra, then Princess of Wales, was setting bold new jewelry trends. She popularized the dog-collar necklace—originally a clever way to conceal a scar on her neck.
In 1905, South Africa unveiled the largest diamond ever discovered: the Cullinan Diamond. It was presented to King Edward VII and expertly cut into nine major stones, ranked by size. Alexandra favored wearing the two largest as a spectacular brooch, though later monarchs treated these gems with more reverence.
Today, ‘Cullinan I,’ known as the Star of Africa, is set in the Queen’s Sceptre, while ‘Cullinan II,’ the Second Star of Africa, adorns her Imperial State Crown.
The remaining stones—affectionately dubbed ‘Granny’s Chips’ within the royal family—were incorporated into stunning brooches. One notable example is Cullinan VII, which hangs alongside emeralds won by an earlier Duchess of Cambridge in a German state lottery, suspended from the magnificent Queen Mary’s Delhi Durbar Necklace.
If anyone could be crowned the true Queen of diamonds, it was undoubtedly Queen Mary.
Long before her husband ascended the throne as George V, she already possessed an impressive personal collection. At the time of her wedding in 1893, the public display of gifts included three tiaras, 26 bracelets, 44 brooches, and 15 necklaces.
Queen Mary also inherited jewels from her mother, the Duchess of Teck. However, some family gems were left to her wayward brother, Prince Francis of Teck, who died young in 1910. He had bequeathed his share of the jewels to his mistress, Lady Kilmorey, a former companion of Edward VII.
Mary was determined not to let this stand. She insisted on paying whatever it took to reclaim her mother’s treasured gems from the spirited Lady Kilmorey.
One such reclaimed treasure, The Duchess of Teck’s Emperor of Austria Brooch, remains a favorite of the current Queen — whether for family photo shoots with Cecil Beaton or last year’s State banquet honoring President Obama.
Queen Mary was always inventive with her diamonds. Nearly 30 years after her wedding, she combined two wedding gifts — a £170 diamond brooch from the people of Swansea and another from the Maharaja of Kapurthla — to create what is now known as Queen Mary’s Stomacher.
Many of the world’s finest diamonds once belonged to the Romanovs. During the Russian Revolution, Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna enlisted an English aristocrat to smuggle her prized gems to relatives on the continent. In 1921, Queen Mary acquired several of these pieces, including the Vladimir Tiara, which remains in regular use today.
Often, Queen Mary simply went shopping. Her Lover’s Knot Brooch, for instance, was purchased from Garrard in 1933 for £345. The current Queen frequently wears it at special family events, notably the weddings of Prince William and Princess Margaret.
Throughout the 20th century, the royal jewellery collection continued to grow, thanks in large part to generous gifts from wealthy admirers. Among the most generous was society hostess Mrs. Ronnie Greville, the childless widow and daughter of a brewing magnate.
Upon her death in 1942, she left her jewellery box — actually a tin trunk — to Queen Elizabeth. It contained over 60 exquisite pieces, many from Cartier, where Mrs. Greville was known to regularly spend tens of thousands of pounds.
The Queen lent her Maple Leaf Brooch, which once belonged to the Queen Mother, to the Canada-bound Duchess of Cambridge on her first royal tour last summerAmong the most dazzling gifts left to the Crown were the Greville Tiara and the Greville Festoon Necklace — both now generously loaned by the Queen to the Duchess of Cornwall.
Despite having access to some of the world’s most exquisite jewels, the Queen Mother favored a more understated elegance compared to her predecessors.
The current Queen shares that same refined taste. Rather than layering necklaces and brooches in abundance, she prefers simpler “daywear,” as Sir Hugh puts it: a tasteful pair of earrings, a pearl necklace, and one or two brooches.
One notable piece is the Queen’s Flame Lily Brooch, a heartfelt 21st birthday gift from the children of Southern Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe), who each donated three pence to fund it.
Yet, for grand State occasions, the Queen is more than willing to bring out the most spectacular pieces.
She herself has added several notable jewels to the royal collection. Among her wedding gifts were the Nizam of Hyderabad Necklace and Rose Brooches—although the Nizam, despite his generosity, never attended the wedding.
As a Princess, she also received the Williamson Diamond Brooch: a platinum flower set with the finest pink diamond ever discovered. This 23.6-carat marvel was unearthed in Tanzania by Dr. John Williamson, a Canadian geologist and devoted monarchist, who gifted it to her on her wedding day. The Queen has since worn this striking brooch at the weddings of the Prince of Wales, Prince Edward, and Lord Linley.
More recent additions include the King Khalid Necklace, presented during her 1979 visit to Saudi Arabia. The Queen has often lent such treasures to the Princess of Wales.
The book also shares the touching story behind the Queen’s Flame Lily Brooch. For her 21st birthday, children from Southern Rhodesia each contributed a “tickey”—a three-pence coin—to help fund the brooch. It was the very piece she chose to wear during her poignant homecoming in February 1952, as she set foot on British soil for the first time as Queen.
As this magnificent book shows, these jewels are far more than mere ornaments. Each has played its own unique role in the tapestry of British royal history. And soon, the public will have the chance to admire them firsthand during this summer’s Buckingham Palace exhibition.
After all, a Diamond Jubilee wouldn’t be complete without a dazzling display of diamonds.
